Hotels and Motels, Places

Early Art Deco Scenes from Miami Beach

The Berkeley Hotel via the Historic American Buildings Survey at the Library of Congress

Miami Beach was incorporated in 1915 after John Collins and his partners had spent some time in the area developing land for crops. As Collins and friends worked the land and built canals to get their avocados, etc. to market, the potential for a beach resort became more and more obvious. The partners and their investors  built the first hotel in 1915 and began the promotion of the area as a resort for wealthy northerners who wanted to escape. Several hotels were built and the resort idea was a success.

Until the hurricane of 1926 brought everything to a halt.

After the hurricane, Miami Beach struggled to rebuild. It wasn’t until the 1930s, a few years after the 1929 stock market crash, that things started to get back on track. Promotion of the beach resort started again as investors funded dozens of small-scale hotels, restaurants, apartments and rooming houses, many of them in the Art Deco design style. It was a was a simpler design style, a more modern answer to the excesses of the Victorian era of design that came before it. And it arrived just in time to turn the blank slate of Miami Beach into a destination of modern elegance. This Art Deco district has had downturns over the years, but with some help it endured and thrives even today.

Postcard scenes from the  1930s and 1940s Art Deco District of Miami Beach:

The Churchill Apartment Hotel

 

Hotel Granada

 

Hoffman’s Cafeteria

 

The Hotel Chesterfield

 

The Shelby

 

The Belmont

It was the 60s and 70s when things turned again for the area. It had become rundown, neglected and some even say the Art Deco neighborhood was dangerous. In 1976, Barbara Capitman, a new resident to Miami Beach at the time, became obsessed with the dilapidated buildings and crumbling neighborhood. It didn’t take too long for her to find other residents, tourists and designers that felt the same. Together, they founded the Miami Design Preservation League (MDPL).  Thank goodness. Their mission was to save these historic structures from neglect, fire and demolition. The MDPL is responsible for making sure the Art Deco District of Miami Beach got on the National Register for Historic Places in 1979. Once again, thanks to the MDPL, the area was on the rise. This time much of it would be known as South Beach. The MDPL started Art Deco Weekends in 1977 to bring residents and tourists to the district for a couple of days of events. In 2018, there were 85 events for visitors to take part in – it’s still going strong.

U.S. Highway 41’s southern terminus is Miami Beach. As a U.S. Highway-obsessed lover of architecture, architect’s wife for Pete’s sake, AND a Florida fanatic, I’m ashamed to say I have never seen these dreamy places in person.  I’ve been mere blocks from the Art Deco district (MERE BLOCKS!)) and missed it completely. It’s a shame……more like shameful, really. But a terrific excuse for another road trip don’t you think?

Sources and further reading:

Miami Beach Art Deco at The Library of Congress
100-year story of Miami Beach – Miami Herald, March 21, 2015
Miami Design Preservation League
Art Deco – Flashback Miami

Places, Stories from the Highways, U.S. Highways

Highway 61 – Bob Dylan Way, Duluth

“Highway 61, the main thoroughfare of  country blues, begins about where I began.” – from his memoir,  Chronicles, Vol 1 – by Bob Dylan
Back in 2006, the city of Duluth, Minnesota dedicated a 1.8 mile route through its downtown to its hometown boy, Bob Dylan. The Bob Dylan Way  just happens to be a part of the old U.S. Highway 61 (now the Scenic North Shore Drive and State Highway 61), which Dylan himself says in his 2005 memoir, Chronicles, Vol. 1 is “where I began”. It’s also the title to his sixth studio album, Highway 61 Revisited.

Bob Dylan was born Robert Zimmerman at St. Mary’s Hospital on East 3rd Street in Duluth on May 24, 1941. While he moved 75 miles away (along U.S. 53) to Hibbing at six years old, Duluth holds the highway that means so much to him.

“I always felt like I started on it, and could go anywhere, even down in to the deep delta country. It was the same road, full of the same contradictions, the same one horse towns, the same spiritual ancestors. It was my place in the universe, always felt like it was in my blood.” – from Chronicles, Vol. 1. 

In Duluth, there are three artistic manhole covers designed by three different artists dedicated to Dylan’s life along the route:

This Yin and Yang guitar manhole cover was designed by Mark Zapchenek and can be found in front of the Fitger’s Hotel at 600 E. Superior St.
Artist Laurel Sanders, inspired by Dylan’s song “Subterranean Homesick Blues”, designed this manhole cover with a pair of boots, a hand lighting a candle and a guitar. It’s installed near the Duluth Depot at the corners of W. Michigan St. and S 5th Ave. W.
This manhole cover was designed by graphic artist, Heidie Geyer and made by David Everett out of melted radiators . This one is at the corner of 13th Avenue East and London Road.

Armed with information about the project on the internet, we walked the streets of downtown Duluth to find these on a recent stay in Duluth. Since Hubby is a big time Dylan fan, it was a fun walk in what we think is a great town.

Today, Highway 61 runs over 1500 miles in nine states (it’s been decommissioned in Illinois) between New Orleans and Wyoming, Minnesota where it turns into State Highway 61 and follows the shore of Lake Superior to Grand Portage, Minnesota. Highway 61 is also known as the “Blues Highway” and is chock-full of music history throughout the route. I can vouch for this being a fantastic road trip by the way, and one that can be seen and heard about through Dylan’s songs on Highway 61 Revisited.

Further Reading:

September 14, 2010 – Artists bring Dylan’s music to manhole covers destined for Duluth – MPR News –

Mark Zapchenk.com

Bob Dylan  | Rolling Stone 

The Late Voice – Google Books

The Cambridge Companion to Bob Dylan – Google Books

Places, Roadside Architecture

Naniboujou Lodge – Highway 61 – North Shore of Minnesota

We’ve been traveling to the North Shore of Minnesota for a decade now and the one place we’ve always wanted to go to, but has always eluded us, was the Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurant. Hard to believe, but we’ve never been there “in season” until this spring. It was worth waiting for. We’ve heard a lot of wonderful things about it over the years and the history, the design, the food, and of course Lake Superior, lives up to everything it was meant to be, and everything it is today.

Entrance to the dining room.

Naniboujou is located about 15 miles east of Grand Marais on the former U.S. Highway 61  (now  Minnesota State route 61) on Minnesota’s arrowhead and the shore of my beloved Lake Superior.  It makes quite an impression when you drive in. There’s nothing else like it on the North Shore.

Lake Superior view from from entrance.

Naniboujou was born out of a plan for a private, exclusive resort that the Naniboujou Holding Company of Duluth introduced in 1927. The Lodge was to be an exclusive private club that included a large clubhouse (today’s dining room), 150 sleeping rooms, tennis courts, a bathing house and of course, a golf course . At the time, the 24 member Board of Governors strove for a national membership for this new private club, so they put a limit on total Minnesota memberships at 25%. Everyone had to apply to be a member and could be denied if even two of the 24 members rejected an application.

A copy of the original membership packet available at the gift shop today.

“You are cordially invited to membership in the Naniboujou Club of the famous Minnesota Arrowhead country. Membership is for those of standing who will recognize the unusually varied features of complete social and recreational activities as outlined in the brochure.” – the opening letter in the membership packet. 

According to that membership packet, members whose applications were approved paid $125 plus $10 in annual dues. Charter members included Babe Ruth, Jack Dempsey and Ring Lardner

On July 7, 1929 Minnesota Governor Theodore Christianson christened the new Lodge. On October 29, 1929, Black Tuesday, the stock market crashed beginning a time of financial difficulties which ultimately doomed the Naniboujou. People stopped joining, stopped paying dues and visiting the new resort.  It was during this time of turmoil that the several changes in ownership began. The current building is just a small part of the original grand plan.

Naniboujou is the Cree Indian Spirit of the Outdoors who is generally known as a powerful, genial, friendly spirit.

The dining room and 20 foot fireplace at Naniboujou.

It is Cree designs painted on the ceiling and walls of the dining room. French artist Antoine Goufee painted them here in 1928-29 and they remain today. Untouched. This is the Naniboujou often presented in pictures. How could it not be? Yet when you walk in the door to the dining room and see this in person it will take your breath away no matter how many times you’ve seen the pictures.

Opposite the fireplace, gift shop in back.

And pictures don’t do it justice. The bold, bright colors invite awe. But, the hard wood floors made it all feel homey and comfortable even being surrounded by such colorful designs. How does that make sense? All I know is that I felt relaxed, welcome and happy to be in that environment. It was wonderful. Hubby,  an architect, remarked how some of the design elements reminded him a little bit of Frank Lloyd Wright. I see that too. I chalk that up to both being rooted in nature.

Cree Indian designs painted by French artist, Antoine Goufee in late 1920s. To this day they’ve never been repainted.

Today, Naniboujou is open every year from mid-May to mid-October. They have special events throughout the year too – including a Christmas dinner, a New Year’s celebration and food and lodging weekends just for skiers in the winter. Mother’s Day Brunch sounds like a big deal for the Grand Marais residents too. Understandable. Hubby and I had fabulous lunches – I had a fantastic lake trout with homemade coleslaw and he had the walleye sandwich with homemade kettle chips. And oh my goodness, the Danish creams desert!! Get one!!  I bought the the Naniboujou cookbook in the gift shop just to have this recipe.

The Solarium, added by one of the more recent owners.

Naniboujou was never built out to include the big plans of the original owners, but it’s still a stunning space. According to the brochure, today people come for a quiet, peaceful natural environment. Which visitors get in abundance. There are many state parks nearby, several hiking trails and of course, Lake Superior to provide us with a pretty spectacular natural environment.

Lake Superior view from inside the Solarium.

The fact that Naniboujou is still here after years of financial turmoil and a variety of owners and managers is a testament to the love people have for it. I’ve heard so many talk about it in our travels on the North Shore, and now I understand. It is a treasure.

Hallway for the 29 rooms in the lodge.

At this writing, no TV’s, no phones and no wifi are available in rooms. There’s no nightclub or bar either. We didn’t have terrific cell service while we were there, but it didn’t matter. We were too busy bowing to nature’s demand for attention. It’s definitely a place to unplug.  Sadly though, for us anyway, no pets are allowed.

Lake Superior from the deck off of the second floor of lodge.

There are a few ahandoned hotels along the north shore and with the onset of the Great Depression destroying the possibility for the original vision of Naniboujou, it could easily be one of them. That  it is still here and embraces the intent of the original designers is a testament to how much it means to the area and its visitors.  It is well-loved a one of a kind experience. I know we’ll be back.

Further reading:

Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurantwebsite

Naniboujou Lodge Historyalso from their website

Mother’s Day at NaniboujouStone Harbor Wilderness Supply website

Dining in the Spirit of Naniboujoucookbook

Naniboujou Lodge Hat Knitting Pattern  – ravelry

Naniboujou is for saleStar Tribune